The Proper Way to Use a Dead Blow Hammer
How to Use a Dead Blow Hammer
A hammer is one of the most useful tools out there. The only problem is you have to control the rebound that is unless you have a dead blow hammer. These tools are accurate and easy to use because this particular type absorbs the bounce. Some are soft faced and some are dead blow ball peen hammer which are used by machinist. All in all they come in handy everywhere from NASCAR race tracks to operating rooms.
To first create the internal structure of the hammer, they drill through a short length of welded steel tubing with the drill press. The worker drove straight through the tool creating a hole on both sides. This tool will become the internal head of the hammer. The head needs a handle. A worker places the tube on a jig and then positions a rod on the hole. A press forces the rod through the tool. At the next station, a worker places the internal hammer assembled behind the paint of tinted glass to protect her eyes as she welds the head and handle together. She only weld the top of the tube so is not to alter the metal. A machine throws a set of small kind of colourful indents in the handle. These indents will be crucial to the process fitting a set of peens inside the mold.
Because the internal handle is around, the urethane exterior could twist on it when the hammer is being used. To prevent this, a worker works on a flat tap. The urethane will lock in place around the tab. Next, a worker crimps a metal cap on one end of the tube.
This creates an open canister which the worker partially filled with the crucial ingredient hardened steel shot. He then crimp the cap on the open end sealing in the shot with the head canister done, the core of the dead blow sledge hammers are now complete. While the basic components are simple, workers must assemble every element with precision. A worker aligns the indents on the metal handle with these peens. The peens ensure that the internal hammer hangs in a perfectly centred position inside the mold. Workers secure the mold in a support frame before placing it on a conveyor that will take it through a preheating oven.
Ball-peen hammers are assembled differently instead of crimping a cap on, they screw the face of the hammer onto a threaded tool. The metal core of the ball-peen is placed in a mold that leaves the metal face and ball exposed. After the molds go through the preheater, they arrived at the filling station. A high-speed mix head blends urethane with hardeners & catalysts and pumps the mix through flexible hose. A worker uses the hose to fill the molds to the brim with the orange fluid.
She then sends them into the oven where they’ll spend 30 minutes curing at about 300 degrees fahrenheit. On the other side of the oven, a worker removes the molds from their frames and then releases the newly formed hammers. Thanks to a special release agent that was sprayed inside the mold, the hammers came out easily. At the finishing station, workers use a high-speed circular brush to remove the excess material or flash produced by the molding process. This is the most difficult operation in the making of dead blow hammers, and these workers are highly skilled. When molding ball-peen hammers, the front and back of the head are left exposed for performance reasons this steel is not stainless. Workers dip the exposed steel and hot wax. The wax coating will protect the hammer from rust until it’s taken off the store shelf and put to use.
A Dead Blow Hammer vs. A Standard Hammer
Instead of the differences in using a dead blow hammer vs rubber mallet, I’ll explain on using with the grommet kid as opposed to using a standard hammer. The hammer is used in conjunction with both the cutter and die centre included in the grommet kit. In both uses, a standard hammer will dent or mark the other tool.
This causes uneven cutting and pressure when using the other tools which hampers even grommet setting and decreases the overall life of your grommet kit. A dead blow hammer definition will enable longer use of the cutter and die set of tools through less wear and tear and increases personal safety by minimizing the amount of rebound from hammer blows.
How to Make a Dead Blow Mallet on the X-carve
I need a mallet and there’s a very common way of making them. Today I’m making a mallet from plywood using the x-carve. I started by designing the mallet in sketch up. This one is pretty large at 14 inches long with a five and a half inch head. Then I sent the SVG outlines to easel which is a free web app by inventible to run the x-carve. i clamped down a piece a half inch plywood and cut out the shape.
Easel automatically adds tabs for the tool path which hold the part in place when it’s being cut out when it’s done, I can cut off those tabs to remove the parts. Now I’ll glue the two handle pieces together keeping them as well aligned as possible. I’m using a lot of clamps not the clamp tightly but rather to clamp evenly. A flush trim bit take care of any misalignment. Now I around over the handle stopping before I get to the head. The sides of the head need to be rounded over on the bottom before they get glued to the handle. For now I’ll just blew one of them on again keeping it as closely aligned as possible.
I’ll fill the head about 80% full of BBs. This is what gives it it’s dead blow characteristics which prevent bounce. Now I can glue on the last layer. I’ll clean up the head as much as I can with flush trim bit and then finish on the edge belt sander. If you want you could glue on leather for a softer surface. I use a file to blend with a handle around over into the head and I finish the mallet with a couple coats of shellac.
So why did I fill the head only 80% full of BBs? Well, when you swing the mallet down, all the BBs moves over to one site and when the mallet hits, all the BBs hit a split second later. This makes for significantly less bounce then if all the weight hits at once and all the energy used on that bounce is a complete waste. I am impressed as I didn’t expect my review to be this positive but thank you so much for reading.
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